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Indeed, Avantime Mike went all queer when he saw it last year, veritably frothing at the mouth. Unfortunately its a family car so there are scuffs here and there now.
Ben I seriously think you should hold fire especialy after your last comment about its working fine in other gears and just no obvious selection of some gears. I would be very keen to say you have lost a location dowel / pin. Which will be in the bottom of the box. As shown the selector mech is all on the on eside and comes of quite easily. When the mechanic has the box of somebody needs to open it up and have a look and stick the unstuck bits back together and have a look at the bearings if you feel brave. That way you have a box you know you trust and its the right box.
Gearbox has arrived and the speedo take off looks very similar and uses the same hole, so should be a straight swap. @Gib I sort of agree with what you are saying and also suspect it is broken dowels on the selector forks (as seen in the Audi video further up the thread). However Im looking at fix for £500 including new clutch. £300 labour, £130 gearbox and £75 clutch which seems like a steal compared to some of the bills I have read about on other vehicles.
It also leaves me with the original gearbox to be fettled and refurbed in due course for myself or the next owner. However, Planet Gears in Peterborough quoted £660+VAT (£210 gearbox refurb and £450 labour) for removal, refurb and clutch fitting £875 which is very reasonable.
They are experts and even did a PK6 last week. So a very good option. Unfortunately my newborn is not well and we are frequenting the hospital just now and need a car ASAP. Using the gentleman 1 mile down the road gets the car back on the road Thursday evening - assuming the clutch arrives tomorrow. More importantly, in terms of my time it is just a couple of hours, and naturally we are extermely busy parents just now and I have a full time job.
Will post some pics of the used Laguna gearbox tomorrow.
It could go either way. I suspect you will either love of hate the new gearing. I hope it is the former. It will certainly be interesting to hear what you think of it.
Cheers all, yes James, may become the first true 40+mpg Avantime cruiser with lower engine wear and less noise......or constantly rowing the gearbox on motorways.
hi, sorry for the radio silence. Diesel Laguna gearbox applied successfully but decided upon the advice of the mechanics to also add a new clutch thrust bearing and dual mass flywheel, which added £360 to the bill!!. We looked at the dual mass flywheel off the car and the return-springing performance was unsatisfactory. I have been waiting for a motorway/dual carraigeway experience for the gearbox ratio review, but lockdown means no travelling so not happened. Basically there is a BIG difference gear ratio wise, 5th is like the old 6th and our slow A-road network locally means car is in fourth alot. sixth does pull from 55mph but unusable below. Ive kept the old gearbox should the next owner need to refurb it. Gearchange is a bit notchy on the Laguna gearbox. So like anyone, we are happy to have a working car again, lets see if I can achieve miraculous fuel economy when we head up north after lockdown ends. Many thanks to all the inputs to help us get this result. Bill was close to £900 all in.
When your life is close to normality ( (about 20 years time based on having kids) give me a shout as I can have a look at sorting the old box esp. as there are now no time constraints.
update...gearbox still OK, a bit notchy, the optimist in me says, its a bit notchy, the pessimist says, synchros dying! hey ho. Right failed MOT on various split gaiters/boots and handbrake refurb needed. Anybody know what kit to buy? O-rings etc? Also indicator sporadic but not sure what is causing that will take out each bulb and clean and check earths.
Handbrake binding is probably due to a rusty cable. Unclip the cable from the caliper and see if the operating lever on the caliper moves and returns freely. Chances are it will so the cable is the part that is binding and needs replacing. If this isn't resolved it will overheat the wheel bearing and burn out the grease with obvious consequences. The bearings are sealed and cannot be re-greased.
Brilliant thanks, have purchased one just in case, sounds very likely at 19 years old! I dont wanna lift the car and not have parts to hand. 2dg though, skin likes to slice at lower temps, chipped knuckles ahoy (or wear heavy gloves).
I have just been under the tank area and if you are lucky you may be able to thread the new one through, Awkward but doable if you have the time drop the tank and give it a clean as well. The tell tail is the dash light all the others are OK other wise they would have failed the car. New track rod end 11quidish. New ball joint - press fit can be done on the car but better to take the whole arm of and refurb or replace. ARB - dust cover I didn't realise this was a fail ??? Pain that you have stuff on both sides.
Does the fuel tank have to be dropped to get at the handbrake cables?.
This depends, if the cable has previously been replaced, the clip that secures it to the body above the tank may not have been refitted, so the new cable can simply be pulled through with the old one.
Must be my misunderstanding I thought the only items that can fail on presentation are linked to dangerous failures , so any torn gaiter or bush that fails and then could cause a crash i.e steering and tracking ball joints, cv's.
Where as ARB's where advise if covers are torn and only fail if loose at presentation not that they could become loose due to exposure and wear
Saying that I have no idea how a battery is not required to be strapped any more ?
I think if the anti-roll bar became detached it would seriously affect handling. Engine bays are so packed these days that the battery even if not clamped is "unlikely to fall from it's position"
Indeed, my air filter housing bolts were not put back as it is sitting there happily in its nest. Problem I've got to is there is nothing wrong with the indicators themselves, but the indication on the dashboard. Have absolutely no idea how to fix that. Also its -1 so that means Im on strike and have found an indoor job to tackle.
ARB’s will affect the handling to some degree but the key is affect not hamper or jam. I have seen many a broken drop link that the owner has no idea about. I was always taught that minor and majors are split along the lines of dangerous at presentation or without remedy be dangerous at some point in the future rather than could affect the car now or at some point in the future. i.e Cv joints will overheat and then jam or break apart if they go dry where as a drop link shearing will give you massive lean but no pitch also it will allow movement not restrict or jam. On Coupe quattos we used to remove the rear ARB links and leave it in place as it changed the handling to loosen up the rear on track I genuinely was surprised that it was a major I have rose jointed the Murena and have no covers on at all.
PS rolling a car with a loose battery is not a good idea.
PPS Ben the offer is still open for me to help with the gearbox.
rolling a car with a loose battery is not a good idea.
So a functional Ant-roll bar is essential in this case wouldn't you say?
"If a front sway bar is broken, then you’ll experience significant differences in how the car handles (steers). It will feel “looser”, particularly when driving at high speeds. It’s very possible that this will cause you to lose control of the car, resulting in a serious accident if you’re not prepared for it."
Wow thanks again that link for the bulb replacement is very impressive. Kudos to the creators. I have purchased new bulbs as shown below, hope they are correct! I fancy that job in this weather, not anything else. The rev counter has gone out as well so that will solve that too. I can also wind the mileage clock back with a pencil (joke btw, I'm not Quentin Wilson!). However the tell tales work from time to time so it might it be a case of cleaning all connections. Still, better to change the bulbs once you are in there! Should I also change the motor speed controller at the same time? or just clean the fan.
Should I also change the motor speed controller at the same time? or just clean the fan.
If the fan speed control is working fine, leave it alone. The reason they fail is nothing more than failing to changing the pollen filters regularly. The motor speed controller (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the rheostat) is cooled by the air flow generated by the fan it is driving so overheats if the airflow is obstructed.
Great input, about to start to tackle the dashboard using the PDF guide. Guess what, the indicator tell tales sometimes work and sometimes do not, so nothing wrong with the bulbs per se, was gonna swap them in any case but not essential. No idea why they would work some days and not the next, or rather the start of the journey and not when warmed up., anyway I will give all the connections a rub with fine sandpaper and sell my soul to devil! The handbrake cable is not arriving until Saturday which means tomorrows service is buggered up. Hmm!
Comments
I seriously think you should hold fire especialy after your last comment about its working fine in other gears and just no obvious selection of some gears. I would be very keen to say you have lost a location dowel / pin. Which will be in the bottom of the box. As shown the selector mech is all on the on eside and comes of quite easily. When the mechanic has the box of somebody needs to open it up and have a look and stick the unstuck bits back together and have a look at the bearings if you feel brave. That way you have a box you know you trust and its the right box.
It also leaves me with the original gearbox to be fettled and refurbed in due course for myself or the next owner.
However, Planet Gears in Peterborough quoted £660+VAT (£210 gearbox refurb and £450 labour) for removal, refurb and clutch fitting £875 which is very reasonable.
They are experts and even did a PK6 last week. So a very good option. Unfortunately my newborn is not well and we are frequenting the hospital just now and need a car ASAP.
Using the gentleman 1 mile down the road gets the car back on the road Thursday evening - assuming the clutch arrives tomorrow. More importantly, in terms of my time it is just a couple of hours, and naturally we are extermely busy parents just now and I have a full time job.
Will post some pics of the used Laguna gearbox tomorrow.
Right failed MOT on various split gaiters/boots and handbrake refurb needed. Anybody know what kit to buy? O-rings etc?
Also indicator sporadic but not sure what is causing that will take out each bulb and clean and check earths.
purchased
I dont wanna lift the car and not have parts to hand. 2dg though, skin likes to slice at lower temps, chipped knuckles ahoy (or wear heavy gloves).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183590597715
The tell tail is the dash light all the others are OK other wise they would have failed the car.
New track rod end 11quidish.
New ball joint - press fit can be done on the car but better to take the whole arm of and refurb or replace.
ARB - dust cover I didn't realise this was a fail ???
Pain that you have stuff on both sides.
@Gib They probably mean the drop link lower ball joint. In which case it would soon start knocking if the grease was lost.
Where as ARB's where advise if covers are torn and only fail if loose at presentation not that they could become loose due to exposure and wear
Saying that I have no idea how a battery is not required to be strapped any more ?
Engine bays are so packed these days that the battery even if not clamped is "unlikely to fall from it's position"
http://Avantime-owners.com/techsheets/Replacing Bulbs or Fan speed controller-28_06_2020.pdf
c/o @matraman243
I was always taught that minor and majors are split along the lines of dangerous at presentation or without remedy be dangerous at some point in the future rather than could affect the car now or at some point in the future.
i.e Cv joints will overheat and then jam or break apart if they go dry where as a drop link shearing will give you massive lean but no pitch also it will allow movement not restrict or jam. On Coupe quattos we used to remove the rear ARB links and leave it in place as it changed the handling to loosen up the rear on track
I genuinely was surprised that it was a major I have rose jointed the Murena and have no covers on at all.
PS rolling a car with a loose battery is not a good idea.
PPS Ben the offer is still open for me to help with the gearbox.
"If a front sway bar is broken, then you’ll experience significant differences in how the car handles (steers). It will feel “looser”, particularly when driving at high speeds. It’s very possible that this will cause you to lose control of the car, resulting in a serious accident if you’re not prepared for it."
extracted from: https://www.autoblog.com/2016/01/04/is-it-safe-to-drive-with-a-broken-sway-bar/
Kudos to the creators. I have purchased new bulbs as shown below, hope they are correct! I fancy that job in this weather, not anything else. The rev counter has gone out as well so that will solve that too. I can also wind the mileage clock back with a pencil (joke btw, I'm not Quentin Wilson!). However the tell tales work from time to time so it might it be a case of cleaning all connections. Still, better to change the bulbs once you are in there! Should I also change the motor speed controller at the same time? or just clean the fan.
The dash holds a plethora of bulb types. There is an article in the downloads section which may help:
http://Avantime-owners.com/techsheets/Bulb fittings in Avantime dash 28_06_2020.pdf